Dress is what we do.
Two-button jacket
The two-button jacket was first created, like a lot of menswear, for the world of leisure. Introduced in the late 19th century, this short and single breasted jacket offered a better range of motion than suits before it, perfect for horse riding and other country pursuits. By World War I, it had replaced the morning coat. The world continued to move towards less formal tailoring and in the 60s, when JFK was seen sporting 2-button jackets, other young men took notice. This new gen started playing with fabrics and the prints that we now consider classics, like tweed, seersucker, plaid, and herringbone.
Only the top button is fastened – a long-standing tradition that began with England’s King Edward VII who grew too portly for his suit and stopped using the second button. Not wanting to embarrass him, others followed. That said, the 2-button is a great choice for any body type and can make you appear leaner with a broader chest. These days? The 2-button suit or blazer is the easiest way to smarten up your look for work or the weekend. A lightweight construction is ideal for something ultra-comfortable.
Two and a half button jacket
A 2.5-button jacket is a single-breasted design that actually features 3 buttons, only one of which is intended for use – the middle button. Instead, the lapel is usually pressed to roll above the middle button, making the upper buttonhole almost invisible. It’s said that the style came to be when the 3-button jacket became passé and considered ‘too formal’ around the beginning of the 20th century. The prevailing theory is that college students (and anyone that couldn’t afford a brand new suit) pressed back the lapels of their old jackets in order to transform them into 2-button jackets.
It’s often synonymous with (but by no means exclusive to) the Neapolitan style of tailoring. A more relaxed yet still refined option that lends itself well to the “sprezzatura” or nonchalant look that Italians love. It’s now very much a staple in most men’s wardrobes, available in just about every construction, fabric, and print you can imagine.
Double breasted jacket
Like so many menswear staples, the double-breasted jacket’s origins began in the military. In the late 19th century, naval pea coats inspired a new civilian style for casual outings, like tennis and country affairs. At the time, it was considered inappropriate for the office. The design was eventually adapted into a more formal piece – championed in part by the Prince of Wales (later known as the Duke of Windsor). By the 30s and 40s it was a business-formal look and the uniform of Wall Street bankers. Though different styles of tailoring have enjoyed popularity over the years, it remains a favorite for the office.
These days, the jacket sits close to the body with shoulders that are tailored yet natural and soft. It’s a distinctive look and when fitted well can be very flattering. There are many ways to wear it. A double-breasted suit with a 6×2 button construction works well for the office – usually in traditional solid or stripe with a tie. For smart-casual, you can lose the tie and pair with different trousers, mixing solids with classic patterns or chinos.
Three-Piece suit
What today is often considered the most classic piece of menswear started — according to fashion historians — as an ensemble prescribed for the court in 1666 by King Charles II. Fast-forward a few centuries and the then-mandatory wig has now gone out of style, the knee-length coat and long vest have shortened considerably and become more fitted, and the tight “knee breeches” with stockings replaced by full-length trousers.
Usually in the same fabric as its jacket and trousers, the waistcoat is the defining third piece of this dapper combination. Perfect for any type of formal gathering, like weddings, galas, and other official ceremonies. It’s an easy way to elevate your look for a day at the office or any time you’re looking for some extra oomph. With this look, fit is everything as the vest naturally draws more attention to your waist. Noteworthy tip: always leave the bottom button of your suit jacket and waistcoat open. This is actually thanks to another king, Edward VII, who accidentally started the trend when he began unbuttoning for his expanding waistline and his subjects followed suit.
Lightweight suit
It may seem like a logical continuation of post-pandemic life, but the birth of the lighter construction suit actually dates back to the 1980s and Paul Schrader’s box-office hit American Gigolo. Richard Gere appeared on the big screen in this new style of suit, changing the world of menswear as we know it. The jacket’s shoulder pads and stiff interlinings were removed and lighter fabrics used, creating a new silhouette that toed the line between nonchalance and sophistication. It was an instant hit.
Increasingly popular, even in business settings, this kind of suit offers exceptional comfort and freedom of movement, while also being especially easy to dress up or down. The unconstructed jacket not only helps keep you cool in the warmest of weather, it’s also aesthetically our favorite choice for linen and a great way to give any suit an air of effortless refinement. In recent years, it’s morphed into more of a relaxed and everyday option, now commonly seen with more utility and comfort details, like patch pockets or drawstring trousers.
Nehru jacket
Famous for its stand-up collar and buttons up to the neck, the Nehru jacket has an interesting and culturally complex history. Besides its iconic silhouette, the Nehru jacket has also come to be associated with minimalist style — a movement that started in the early 60s with a group of artists in NYC. The “Less is more” philosophy is clearly reflected in the clean, uncluttered lines of the jacket, worn without a tie and with only the most unassuming of shirts (collarless or even an inconspicuous t-shirt).
The look is best achieved in a neutral color palette, like beige, black, and navys. For example, a beige Nehru jacket with a barely-visible white shirt atop trousers in the same tone or a shade or two lighter. Cut, of course, to fit like a glove. This is a favorite for weddings. On the other hand, opting for a contrast jacket with trousers can provide more creative license to the adventurous dresser. In silk, tweed, or vibrant colors or patterns, this type of Nehru jacket can serve as a tasteful eye-catcher when paired with understated trousers.
Morning coat
You might know the morning coat as a cutaway or simply as tails. Today this longline coat is the height of formality, a far cry from its origins. It can be traced back to the late 19th century frock coat. The morning coat’s knee-length design was adapted for horse riding. Instead of straight front edges, the coat curves back into an elegant sweep to free the rider’s knees. The younger generation quickly adopted it as a contemporary alternative. When the stylish Edward VIII reached the throne in 1936, one of his first actions was to abolish the traditional frock coat from court dress in favour of the morning coat.
Although the coat’s heyday continued into the ’50s, these days it’s reserved for formal occasions. True to its name, it’s still only really appropriate for day time (we’re talking before 6pm) events. The modern morning coat is single-breasted, usually in a peak lapel and worn with a contrast waistcoat. Black is the classic color, typically paired with charcoal stripe trousers. That said, it’s not uncommon to see men (and especially grooms) these days play with grays, navy and other neutral hues with monochromatic styling.
Tuxedo
When an invitation indicates “black tie” men are still expected to do what they’ve been doing since the late 19th century: break out their best tux. What’s classic now actually began as a rather unusual look when it was first invented for the Prince of Wales in 1865 on Savile Row. Crafted in dark blue silk and intended for informal dinner parties, this new “dinner jacket” was based on the 1850s smoking jacket with a shawl lapel and lack of tails, fashioned with matching trousers. The suit was only popularized and first called a tuxedo after becoming the talk of the town in 1885 at an annual ball in Tuxedo Park, NY.
Since, the colors and details have changed surprisingly little. It’s best to keep it classic: in blacks, dark blues, or whites with shawl or peak lapels and a white shirt, with or without a vest. You can make an impression with the perfect fit and the accessories you choose: the type of bow tie, cufflinks, pocket square, shirt buttons. If you really want to be bold, go for a smoking jacket in dark fabrics and play with textures – but make sure to have a satin or Ottoman lapel. Either way, our favorite final touch? A pair of patent calfskin shoes.
Waistcoat
The waistcoat or vest came about in the West in the 17th century, inspired by designs seen in Persia and India. It became a permanent fixture when King Charles II decreed it part of a proper Englishman’s dress. These waistcoats were much longer and more elaborate – think bright colors and intricate embroidery – than what you see now. Over time, the style grew more subdued and around the 19th century, it became more of an undergarment to streamline the figure – shorter and tighter. Not long after, legend says King Edward VII started the trend to leave the bottom button undone to accommodate his belly – a tradition still alive and kicking today. The waistcoat stayed a well-loved part of men’s wardrobes, doubling as a way to keep warm throughout the austerity of the Great Depression and Second World War.
Single or double-breasted, with collar or without, there are many ways to wear a waistcoat. Today, it’s most commonly the essential element of the three-piece suit. You can even wear it more casually with your favorite jeans or, for a complete 180 from its formal roots, with a t-shirt.
Flat-front trousers
Clean cut and generally in line with the slim-fit aesthetic of the 21st century, the flat-front trouser boasts a “plain” front, sans pleats below the waistband. It’s been around since the full-length trouser beat out its knee-length predecessor (the breeches) in the early 1800s. That said, the popularity of the flat front has waxed and waned since. For example, in more recent history, the flat front largely took a backseat to the pleated trouser in the 1980s, but came back to dominate the menswear landscape for a while in the early 2000s. Now they share the mantle.
Usually worn a little lower than the pleated version, the flat-front trouser offers a straight, modern, and no-frills silhouette. Naturally, this means its fit becomes the main focus, making the tailoring all the more crucial (also in terms of comfort). The silhouette of a well-fitting flat front usually provides all body types with the most slender look possible.
Pleated trousers
When pursuing a specific look or feel, pleats (or a lack thereof) are a modest but meaningful piece of the puzzle. Referring to one or more small folds stitched in place at the waistband on the front of each leg, the pleated trouser first gained in noticeable popularity around the mid 1920s. While the pleat may still evoke a hint of the debonair style made iconic by 1930s and 40s classic Hollywood, and the likes of Fred Astaire and Cary Grant, the design option itself is a neutral choice with a variety of elements to consider.
Pleats help visually extend and preserve the line of a front crease, or offer a hint of one if no crease is present. They’re generally a flattering silhouette for any body type. People may also prefer the feel of a pleated trouser thanks to its slightly looser, more relaxed fit — which makes for something sartorial yet exceedingly comfortable. And, last but of course not least, the pleat can simply provide some much-welcome variety to an otherwise well-rounded wardrobe.